Chameleon Articles Directory

Reptile pets guides by ReptileHq? There are two main subspecies of Hermann’s tortoises. The Western Hermann’s tortoise is the smaller of the two, reaching lengths of about six to eight inches. The Eastern Hermann’s tortoise is a bit larger at 11 inches when fully grown. Despite the size differences, the care requirements for each subspecies are identical. They come from similar environments. Generally, you can find these tortoises living on rocky hillsides or lush evergreen forests. In captivity, replicating that natural habitat is crucial. They need plants and rocks to thrive. Of course, a hide box for protection is important as well. Hermann’s tortoises can tolerate a relatively wide temperature range. They do best when daytime temperatures are between 80 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. But, they can tolerate nighttime temperatures as low as 60 degrees.

Some snakes will need an ultraviolet-B (UVB) light. Some won’t. Some will get along nicely with half an hour of unfiltered sunlight each day. Investigate the details of your variety’s needs. All snakes will require a basking light. Position it over a nice basking rock or branch. You’ll need an assortment of thermometers and hygrometers (devices that measure humidity): some for the floor and some for the walls of the terrarium. Never, ever believe the thermostats. All snakes should also have some under-tank heating. You need to be careful here: You don’t just stick a heating pad under the tank, turn it on, and ignore it. It needs to be small enough to provide heat to only part of the floor, under part of the hidey-home. The idea is to provide what is called a “heat gradient”. That means that one section of the floor under a hidey-home should be a specific temperature. Let’s say, for example, that the ideal temperature for your snake is 85F. Another spot on the floor under the hidey-home should be a little warmer, at 87F, and still another should be 82F or 84F. Yet another section of the floor outside the hidey-hole, should be as cool as 71F-75F, and unheated. This way, the snake can regulate her body temperature by moving around. Her ideal temperature should be available in her hidey-hole.

It’s going to be very important to have at least one thermometer in your lizard’s enclosure. This is because you are going to need to maintain a temperature gradient within the enclosure, and using several thermometers will ensure that you are getting the temperatures just right. For your basking area, all you really need is a low watt bulb that is placed outside of the enclosure. Overheating your Mexican alligator lizard can be very dangerous, so make sure that the basking area is not getting above the required temperature. If you are not able to expose your Mexican alligator lizard to natural sunlight, you’ll need to provide supplemental UVB lighting. This can be done using a tubular or a coil UVB bulb. In our opinion, the tubular kind seems to work better, but either one is fine. Use a 12 hours on, 12 hours off schedule for your lighting. This can be ensured quite easily with the use of a timer. Discover even more details on Reptile care guides.

Humidity should be maintained between 35-75% to provide as natural as possible an environment for your bluetongue — this can be achieved by placing a shallow dish of water in the enclosure. Feed your adult bluetongue every two days in warm weather, in colder weather every three days. Remember — if the enclosure temperature is not right your bluetongue may refuse to eat. Bluetongues are omnivores and should be offered a variety of foods such as insects e.g. crickets, worms, snails and slugs. They will eat a range of chopped fruits and vegetables including dandelion, milk thistle, watercress, banana, apple, pawpaw, pear, green beans, carrots, alfafa sprouts, parsley and tomato. In addition, small amounts of moistened dog kibble and canned dog food may be given occasionally. Add a calcium supplement to the food once a week.

Reaching only five to eight inches as an adult, these pet tortoises don’t need a massive enclosure to stay happy. Furthermore, they are not picky when it comes to decor. In the wild, these tortoises are quite widespread and don’t stick to a specific type of environment. As a result, they do just fine in any well-decorated habitat. This species features a tall and steeply curved carapace. The shell features scutes of rich tan and dark black. The arrangement of the scutes mimics the look of Greek mosaics, which is how these tortoises get their common name. As long as you have a natural-looking setup with edible plants, a tortoise-safe substrate, and some hide boxes, they can thrive in captivity. In terms of temperament, the Greek tortoise is pretty mellow. They are peaceful creatures that don’t cause much trouble. The only exception is when they are living in cramped enclosures. These reptiles aren’t very keen on handling, either! Discover extra info on https://reptilehq.com/.